Scuba adventures in Zanzibar

Friday after work Joyce (my friend from Cali with the Tanzanian (TZ going forward) Nursing Initiative) jumped on board the Azam SeaBus for the 1.5hr ride to Zbar. It was a bumpy ride, not for the faint of heart (seasick), but we got some lovely seats where we could sprawl out on the top deck, where we could enjoy the breeze. Basically it was the thickly carpeted floor. Could hardly walk on the ship, tourists (like us) were covering every available space. Hmmm could they be filling the boats beyond capacity and not declaring the additional passengers for tax purposes? I was happy only paying the locals rate of 20k ($14) each way, vs $35 USD. As expected the port (both ways) was hectic and we were mobbed by taxi drivers wanting to have us as their next victims (always walk out of the crazy area to get a fare priced cab). We stayed at Warere Guest House, not ideal on the port side, but only 20mins from Stonetown. On Friday night we checked out some films (Motherland, by a Jamaican Brit), and Ndoto Za Elibidi (stories of love and HIV from Nairobi slums). Saturday we wondered the endless alley's of Zanzibar and took a dala dala (sorry no pics) for 20mins up to Mtomi Marine (a beach) where we made some friends. On the way back we stopped at Darjiani (locals food market) where we had some catchori, bajia, corn, etc from street stalls. We later hung out at Livingstone's where we met Pweza (means octupus, which is what he goes by). Went to a locals pub briefly, to celebrate my bday. Everyone was tired, so I wandered on my own, to the film fest afterparty, then wandered by Bwawani disco. Sunday we had Scuba from 9-2 (I decided to spoil myself for my bday, espcially since in Powell River 2005 and Egypt 2006 I missed the chance). Then caught the 4pm ferry. Will never forget the dive and journey there...stay tuned for details!

mtindi, muchungwa, and sekelo mahindi

Finally had the courage to buy street food. Apparently, I only got partially ripped off, so that was exciting. Still haven't had madafu though.  Last night for dinner, had a ~medium thin crust chicken tikka pizza, bavaria (malt beverage), and 'revello' - total cost - 8k Tsh (divide by 1400 gives <$6!!)

hope this makes sense!  leo mchana nilinunua mtindi, muchungwa, na mahindi.  Many of the visitors from Calgary who were in town have now left, and come September I'll probably have even less friends as many of the students return to school. So learning swahili will be very helpful.

As nice as Tanzanians might be, they aren't very motivated to get things done. In fact, Customer Service hasn't been invented here. I'm thinking of starting a business which will teach this alien concept. People say it's because TZ was socialist before, and also that in Kenya, things get done much faster.

Stunned by the disparity here - I can't remember what Kenya was like (visited in 02 and 06), but I think the latter must be worse as it was #5 for Gini coefficient if I recall correctly.  People pay house staff miserably; which probably isn't the best idea since we already got kicked out once already! It's easy for the privileged, including many indians, to spend in a night out what some locals earn in a month.

On another note...the onion has been one of my favorite websites for many years, though I rarely visit it. This one was too good not to pass on:

http://www.theonion.com/articles/more-americans-concerned-illegal-immigrants-will-t,17705/?utm_medium=twitter&utm_source=twitterfeed

I thought I'd post it here rather than facebook since some of you aren't on facebook.  Then again, I'm sure you're not checking my blog either!

gotcha mutha*#*(@# !!

I've never cursed so much. A good night's sleep is dependent on exterminating those buggers. So I chase them wherever they go. Their dead bodies line my floors. The ants help carry them away. The lizard who hangs out in the bathroom, along with the spiders, help out in catching some. This first week has been a bit of a 'housing' disaster as they just creep in from everywhere. Sunday and Monday night I was at Durban hotel, then was at the flat, and last 2 nights the local pastor helped me find 'cheapest and best' hotel, until this is sorted. Sunday morning (July 11th) I awoke around 4am with a swollen lip (mosquito bite!) and decided to head to our mosque as it was a special day and we had breakfast and dandiaraas. Visited Kariakoo (a notorious neighborhood) after.

Though we have a driver at the office for when I need to get around, the parkade is annoying to get in and out of. There are tons of huge speedbumps, just like in other parts of Dar. 'Rotating through this thing is like going to heaven' says my colleague Dr Deogratias Morice Kasenene Kakiziba. If you knew him, it would be alot funnier! But I think he was 'upset' when I laughed at what I thought was a joke - he was quite serious about hating it. He's also quite frustrated with the phrase 'microinsurance' as this concept doesn't really exist in the swahili language. Interestingly enough his 'third' name refers to the grasshopper delicacies that are served in his region. He emphasized it's not your common locust, and the prices are shooting up, while describing their crunchiness to me.

All people eat here is CHIPS. Had chips mayai for lunch today (basically an omlette with fries cooked in!). This trip so far redefines 'greasy' for me. It has been a challenge (as always when trying to live local) figuring out what foods to eat. So far it's been alot of mishkaki (beef skewers), chicken piri piri, samaki (fish), pilau, ndizi (banana) and some fresh juices.

Watched the game at Slipway, Oyster Bay Sunday night. Friends didn't show, so then I went to Movenpick, where they ended up. After, went to a place called Mambos with some local Ismailis for some post-midnight greasy delights.

NG