Northern Pakistan 2007

Let me know what you think!

 

Taken with a basic digital camera.

 

We can see the treacherous road conditions, the dedication to the Imam, and the vast beauty of the region.

 

 

 

profile on the AKFC site

Just found myself on slide 32
http://www.akfc.ca/join-us/international-development.html#IMM

Mozambique's history in brief

Independence in 1975 (after 11yr war to boot the Portuguese)
75-92 Civil War
83 Socialism's failure acknowledged
86 Samora's (Prime Minister) plane crashes suspiciously
95 many displaced persons (internal and external) returned home

Angola
Also gained independence in 1975
30 yr civil war ended in 2002

Watched Avatar last night at Club Naval (the more expensive extension to Pemba Beach Resort, where ironically, there's no beach). The movie brings up some important discussion topics relating to refugees, colonialisation, resource use, etc. Sadly with Africa, the wars for independence have not been as quick as in Avatar!  Will we continue to pilfer the world's resources and plunge places into war by placing profits over people?  Tonight at Russell's they're playing Brothers, which I've seen, but will attend anyways to pass time.

Had an interesting meeting with AKF this morning, to discuss cooperating on initiatives relating to supporting silversmiths, craftspeople, and farmers producing cash crops like sesame. Would be great to see continued collaboration.

rant

weekend was fun as i live in the cool part of town now (the beach) and went snorkeling which was great; i'll go back this weekend.  however i haven't had running water for a week which is kinda annoying, and then this AM my power credit got used up, just to make life more difficult (I assumed it was just the usual power outage, but at 6am the guarda was rapping on my window to wake and inform me).  Then my empregada (cleaner) had to leave town as her niece died (i think; am never sure with the language barrier), then my security guard had to go to the hospital as his sister was in a traffic accident and got transferred to the provincial hospital here in pemba.  All sorts of crap to deal with!  So didn't reach work until after 9:30am.  as for the motorbike i was trying to buy last week, the goddamn place couldn't accept my visa, mastercard, or debit, so prob have to go to the bank machine and draw 5 times, if they have the cash that is. And I probably get stupid exchange rates.

Re: pics - from my phone

I swear, it was the Kenyan National Bug

pics - from my phone

1) The annoying beach boys - perhaps a good way to practice my golf swing
2) Can u imagine the fallout if it said 'white supremacy'! (Mombasa)
3) I guess in Kenya also 'summer never ends' (Summer Slam is every Friday) (Mombasa)
4) at a public washroom near Nairobi train station. dammit, i wanted to wash my chicken.
5) Pemba beaches are beautiful, but outside the beaches the lack of trash collection system is terrible. Sadly, a homeless guy dived in (scared me) seconds after I took this shot.
6) if interested, i have a contact in NBI

a reef? right in front of my house?

I'm going to be bored outta my mind on wkds. They're like a never-ending beach vacation!

This wkd was good as this Sunday AM did some amazing snorkeling!
Cost me $6 (a tip)! The reef is right in front of my place during low tide! Cut up my hands and legs a bit on the coral

as it comes right up to the surface. This was more fun then those expensive touristy trips - like when I snorkeled in Bahamas in 2009 or scuba'd in zanzibar in July. It was just so effortless - no prep required, just grab the snorkel and 15mins later you are enjoying the ocean.

On prev wkds I'd wonder town and pass time with the Ismaili community including

my roomates and their friends and wondering town. Now that I live on the beach,I'm constantly harrased
by beach boys, but I'm kinda in the coolest part of pemba. On Sunday's,

U can hardly see the beach in front of me its so crowded!

Since coming back to Pemba on Tuesday I've had a bad on and off cold - probably due to being around sick people, the climate change from Nairobi, and due to going from a/c to scorching heat in Pemba. Somehow found some Cogoni Jivan Sanjivani in Mombasa whilst shopping for spices, so a little addicted to that along with my little vicks inhaler as some of you always see me with.

a love hate relationship.

I'm glad to be back in Pemba. A new house, a refreshed mind, a/c in the office. The hot weather is not so different from Mombasa. I can get used to the sun setting at 5pm.

But alas. No water in the new place. It's being resolved I am told. We will see.  Nothing reminds us how fortunate we are than having to use buckets of water - for showering, washing dishes, washing your face, brushing your teeth, etc.  And spending a whole afternoon trying to buy a motorbike - after asking them to prepare it yesterday,  I arrived today just before their two hour lunch break - they insisted I come back. Finally it was ready - but the municipal office, I found out, closes at 3pm. And a Swiss friend insisted, since police here don't hesitate to shoot, evident by the riots in Maputo only a few months earlier, I don't try to get away with riding without proper registrations!

So what was Kenya like? Spent some time on the beaches, visited other AKFC Fellows, visited 94yr old bapa (enjoyed learning about the family history in East Africa), attending JK, visiting First MicroBank Nairobi, trying to arrange a meeting with CARE, checking out the restaurants and night life, and seeing Kenya by train (Tsavo). The mild weather in Nairobi was brilliant. I can definitely say it's a city I could live in - but that's easy to say being based in Pemba!

Coast!

Heading to Mombasa tonight by an 8hr bus ride - a long journey but very excited! The train would be 15hrs, just a little too long for my liking. Spent today changing my flights, snoozing in the AM, eating traditional african food, and trying to organize the trip. Yesterday (Tues 26th) had a chance to visit Kibera, a slum with an estimated 1m residents. Before that, went to Al-Yusra, a great Somalian restaurant we found. I now will be returning to Pemba on Tuesday Nov 2nd. When I'm back in NBI in a couple days, would like to visit Toi Market, where my friend just picked up some very cheap hockey jerseys!

Nairobi

Arrived Tuesday night. Had minor visa /passport problems.  Took a cab to Norfolk Towers (right outside downtown). Went to Simmers for dinner with the other fellows. Wednesday 20th was Kenyatta Day; went to Paradise Lost with Wanda and Dan. Also stopped in at the Kenyan National Archives (museum).  Watched 7 Pounds in the evening after we had a great daal dinner courtesy of Lisa! A friend came into town in the evening so went for late night snacks.  The mosquitos here buzz like crazy so am fighting for sleep!  Visited Shaffina in hospital this AM, did lunch with Wanda - ate ugali, nyama choma, kuku, and sukomawiki at the market, and drank stoney tangiwizi which i've been missing in pemba! Back to the hospital, then to visit Abdul uncle who just came back from China. Can't wait to get some Velvet Chocolate cake - I stopped one of their trucks today to see where I could get one!  Though the sun is hot today, this place is a huge relief from the heat of Pemba!  The evenings are cool here - it's great!

Indian feast; failed Ibo visit; memories of China

Yet another long weekend, but am at work today as I (and many others in the FMB Head Office) leave town tomorrow, many for or via Nairobi.  Yesterday we had a wonderful Rajasthani mutton curry. Muinto piri-piri but enjoyable nonetheless. Quite interesting to watch all the boys often get together and cook up a storm. The women aren't around so they've learned to make do - and quite well I might add.  I spent the day relaxing, reading, and learning about the 2nd hand clothing industry. Saturday was the end of Nauratri, and I enjoyed spending time with the mixed Indian community and practicing dandia/raas.  The day was a disaster though, as we took a brutal 3hr drive to Quisanga in an attempt to reach Ibo Island for an audit. We reached at 8am after our 5am departure, at which time I proceeded to chat with an Israeli couple(?) who were travelling post-military service. They had been waiting for a boat since 6am and their language barrier wasn't helping. We were able to get them the information and they boarded a boat with some other people I know from Pemba. We were to wait for the AKF boat, which surely would arrive soon we were told. Finally we got the update -10am. Ahh, then a Fundacion Ibo boat arrived, and one of the AKF nurses said the boat was at another island, Medjumbe I believe, and wouldn't get here anytime soon. She suggested we just take any boat, then the AKF boat would get us home. As I was on a 'work trip', I was advised we should wait for the proper boat. Many stories, texts, and calls later, we gave up our mission and at 2pm started to head home, back down the brutal dirt roads with spontaneous water traps built to divert water during the rainy season. Perhaps next time. 

Off to Nairobi tomorrow, it's my 4th time visiting but I've never been as excited!

This is from 2006! I was trying to post it to an online forum but wasn't successful, so what better place than my blog?  I have fond memories of China, and have just (finally) been in touch with my counterpart Chris, who is now based in Shanghai, and unfortunately declined a transfer to Zambia (would have been my neighbor!).

After a 14 hour flight and 20 hour train ride, we had a week to get rested in our new homes, and become acquainted with Yichang, Hubei. This is a city along the Yangtze river which is famous for its orange production, and is considered the hydroelectric capital of the world, as the controversial Three Gorges dam is a short drive away (not to mention Gezhouba and many others!). As a participant in a cross-cultural volunteer exchange, I was surprised when my counterpart and I initially were placed at a construction company, where we got to look at Chinese building techniques, including some new environmental projects such as water filtration. Not the type of place I though I would be volunteering at. As our usefulness with this firm was limited, we soon began as English teachers at Three Gorges Technical and Vocational College. It was quite enjoyable as the students were so grateful to have a native English speaker and they were eager to learn, often requesting extra classes. My roommate loved it for a while, as I could do most of the talking. He was then offered a job at the school! So he got busy following the curriculum, and after the four weeks of holidays (Spring Festival + final exams), I was transferred to a private boarding school overlooking the famous Gezhouba dam, where I completed the duration of my volunteer work. I learned how it feels to be 'illiterate', as in central China very few people speak English. All the signs are in Chinese characters. Amazingly, communication with my host mom was quite good. She realized the speed at which we could understand Chinese, along with the importance of simplicity! With a little body language, and my improving vocabulary (including local dialect), she understood me. During the Spring Festival, we spent lots of time with different aunts, often eating lunch at an apartment, going out for the afternoon, and returning to the same place for dinner. I got to know my counterparts family really well. In China, I became so used to the 10+ dishes at each meal, and have had to readjust to the simple food culture in Canada. In China, I noticed that schedules were quite precise, and I was surprised that time was taken seriously. On the other hand, we Canadians had to learn to go with the flow, as often we were told we had to be somewhere important minutes before we needed to leave. Our visit to the Great Wall was a mind-blowing experience. We saw a tiny portion of the 5500km wonder. We had two visits to Beijing as the city of 12 million was our entry and exit point in China. As we were in China to serve, not to travel, other places we visited were limited to Wuhan (capital of Hubei province), and rural regions of Yichang, including visits to minority peoples' regions. I loved the Tuja dance.

The level of hospitality I experienced in China was unsurpassed, and when I hear of people who visited as tourists and found the food was just 'mama hu hu' (so-so), I tell them they were surely eating at the wrong place! They should have eaten my Ayi's (aunties) food!

"Never have so many lines of communication in the hands of so many people been met with such obsessive resistance from a central authority."

banking in Pemba + confusion over cities

The Barclay's branch here is brutal.  I can't ever complain about Canadian banks after seeing the daily cues here (I may take that back once back in my TD branch).  We speak of challenges 'banking the unbanked', especially in rural areas - but even in the city access is poor.  People are so patient - my guess is either they don't have a busy day (perhaps their employer books a whole day off for them?).  Millenium/BIM is a local bank which sometimes is quite hectic, but I expected Barclay's to have a different standard.

 

Noone knows where I am. I always say 'Pemba Mozambique' but later am always asked 'how's Tanzania?' Well, there is Pemba Mozambique, Pemba Island (Zanzibar), and now I've discovered Pemba, Zambia. Perhaps like when we name a child, we should check a book before we name our cities. We need to copyright city names going forward and create a city names database....that's my bright idea!

yum...tambi!

The last few days were quite rewarding, i visited a local friend and found he had a fiance and a cute little 2yr old - i enjoyed the evening with them. baby robert had a very bloated belly so I insisted they take him to the dr. The doc said that he was fine (I disagree), but just needed more varied nutrition (agreed). i shared some maria biscuits with them, and it was touching to see mum put hers aside for the baby, even though i'd given him one. they have a great little place but no cash flow as his work was contracted out. i've given him some ideas and lent/given him some goods and a few dollars to get a micro business going, and so far it seems to be bearing fruit.

Last night I went to Club Naval (resort) with a friend from Vancouver (HR intern). I had a greek salad - wasn't the greatest but was still nice to get a salad for once. Until I'm settled into a permanent place, I probably won't cook much. But i did make yogurt! it was soso, perhaps because my culture base came from fruit yogurt. Will try again. And I made the most delicious Tambi! (sweet vermicelli in milk aka dudh wari sev) which is a very tradtional east african dish which my grandma wud always make - i had no idea it was so easy!

My Morning and the Daily Commute!

Usually consists of waking at 7. If lucky will eat a piece of bread, and if very lucky will have chai as well! Usually can get chai once I reach the office. The 20 minute walk to work is very pleasant. The road doubles up as a sidewalk as the cars are very few in this part of town. Most belong to AKF so sometimes I hitch a ride. The others typically belong to Helvetas or an NGO. The bay is very calm. A few fishing boats can be seen. I can see the Indian Ocean at the other end of town as Pemba has a perfect tilt to it. It’s usually about 26 degrees by this time (pre-summer). Birds are chirping and locals carry small pieces of firewood and go about their daily chores, usually with baby attached via an additional capulana (sarong).

White people.

I see white people. Or a white person; a big white person – in Millenium/BIM Bank. He was a full head above the 100 plus locals that filled the branch. I couldn’t imagine how out of place he must’ve felt. He literally looked like an ex-NFL’er – or convict for that matter. I couldn’t help it – I had to stare at him. He had a massive orange jumpsuit on –no doubt custom made – and the label read Haliburton. Oh - and on Sunday Oct 3rd, I was bored and walked over 2 hours to Pemba Beach Hotel (hoping to play tennis, but by that time I was famished) where I saw him again. He seemed a little more normal in this environment. I think he was a Texan.

I also met a South African naval worker last week (with a ship searching for oil off Mozambique) who had docked for a day and was trying to send USD home. Sadly, none of the banks had USD. I also was on my search to find a bank machine to provide Meticais – 4 banks later, I finally got some.

Monday I wandered to Baixa (lowland near the port) to see a place. Wasn't able to see it, so hung out with Musaji AbdulGani instead- a wonderful old guy who has a nice shop and comes from the tiny unheard of village in Gujarat India right next to my Great grandfathers tiny unheard of village! After, I dropped by the net cafe next to M-Cell and met a great British couple who have travelled overland with stops in syria, egypt, ethiopia, and now 2mths in Mozambique with the childrens charity Arco Iris, before moving on and settling in South Africa. They too gave up their jobs and came from good backgrounds and were questioned why they wanted to go to africa. I hope to meet them again as they are great inspiration for me. Inspired by Gandhi, and God, their goal is to slowly give things up and become more content with the simple things in life and really immerse themselves in the lives of african children. Cheezy and crazy to some, but to me, they are brilliant (said with a british accent!). Downward mobility, as an American friend in Dar explained to me. The best part of travelling is definitely the people you meet. Whether it be like-minded travelers, or deep-hearted locals, you can always find people who inspire.

In terms of the rest of the L.W., I watched hindi films and shows like mad as my roommate was away in Maputo. Striker, Annadata, aur pyar ho gaya, yuuvraj, dil kabaddi, jhoom jiya re, dhoom, etc. Bati, the servant enjoys them too. But today (Tuesday) the boss was back and the work piled on quickly.

Pemba is amazing although sometimes I just don't know what to do with myself. I enjoy just wandering, visiting with Indian friends, taking pics occassionally, and just chatting, drinking, and eating with locals.

Coming up next...A 'Top Ten' list...

Home at Last (edited)

Challenges of writing a blog

Forever we are required to entertain - don't lose the readers attention! said my 8th grade English teacher. That's the dilemma I face. There is so much to write about in my day to day affairs. But when I sit down to type, not only do I forget those special or quirky moments, but I lack inspiration to write. Ok, well here's my best attempt. It may just turn out to be a journal. When it's 29 degrees and you have no a/c, thinking, breathing, and even typing is a little tough. And to think many people work for $30/mth outdoors in this difficult land. 'they're used to it' many 'strangero' (foreigners) say, 'that's their life, it's ok for them'. Well if you consider inadequate sanitation, meals consisting primarily of carbs (pao as they call it - fresh bread/buns) and xima/ugali - (maize flour mixed with water to form a solid porridge), irregular access to water and electricity, then yes, it's just fine for them. Perhaps our vision for a better life for the poor is not so necessary after all.

On Saturday, we took an off-road journey to Murrebue (www.murrebue.com/Pages/home-page.html), an amazing beach 30 minutes away. It was a scary journey which was beyond my comfort level - but upon saying 'yes, I'd like to join - do you have space for me?' I had past the point of no return. I'll avoid the details since I'm now at an age where I give family access to my blog!

Sunday, you guessed it...I went to the beach (near Nautilus) with a local friend. I visited this young Mozambicans home for brunch before the 5 meticais bus journey to the beach. His home was basically a little concrete dwelling in behind the landowners home. His rent, at $24/mth (800mts) was 'expensive'. It was basically a double bed, with just enough room to walk around it. There was space for a tv and fridge, and his clothes were visible in a makeshift armoire. We had fried fish (90mts/kg - about 4 little fishies), a fried tomato/onion mix (very common), and xima (ugali). It was a nice day, other than the 1 hour he left me waiting alone while he tried to reload his phone with credit.

So I committed to a home at last. Not sure it will be permanent, but will do for now. I know my roommate is charging me way too much, but worth it for the piece of mind and for the stability. Better than bouncing around from motel to shady motel. The houseboy makes it really awkward for me. The owner thinks he treats his 'servante' very well - but he sleeps on the floor - at night he has a straw mat though, for that added touch of luxury. He sleeps in the corner like a dog. I don't think he has access to a shower so the scent is a little overwhelming. My boss has advised me not to get involved - it's none of my business, as long as I treat him well.

The housing challenge:

Not only do people not mark places for rent, but even if they did, it’s impossible to find the owner. In one case, a colleague from M&E, moving back to Dominican, showed me a 2 bdr place on the beach for $800. The owner was based in Maputo, and the guard was only found after a repeat visit, in which case said (Portuguese speaking) colleague was not with me. It was nighttime, and there was no power in the house, so his Nokia light (most cells here have flashlight and radio!) was all we had. Now, oil companies are scooping up beach properties.

The solution:

Learn Gujarati, Portuguese, and Hindi/Urdu as fast as possible. Network like mad. Talk to airline agents, NGO workers, AKDN staff and interns, even randoms on the street.

The result:

Success! Tuesday Sept 28^th I moved, after 3 weeks in limbo.

Business Development, access to microfinance, and the credit crisis.

The whales pass daily, but sadly I have yet to see one. I befriended a young unemployed man, fluent in English, who had a monocular he was looking to pawn off to give him capital so he could start vending soft drinks. He wanted 2000, then said 1000, which I still thought was too high. I thought I'd see him again, but his cell battery caught fire, and its 150 Mts for a new one ($5), which he doesn't have. So perhaps this weekend I've got an adventure to look forward to - I will find him in Cariaco, a fairly large area. But I want to offer him 400 - $12. A fair price for me (seeing a whale actually would be priceless), and enough for him to buy 2 crates of fanta. What is his business plan? Simple. He has a little house he built in a good part of Cariaco, and will sell them from there. He also has a little cooler. If it doesn't work , his friend has a vegetable stall from which he'll sell them. The financial projections are simple:
7.5 Mts x 24 per case x 2 cases = 360. 40 to give him a meal or two and some change to work with. Sell at the going rate of 12.5, leading to total revenue of 600. He thinks he could do that in a day but I told him to assume he'll take a week. His gross profit would be 40%.

Sadly, microloans are hard to come by in this region, as the industry reigns itself in as repayment rates have been poor. So guys like this have to pawn off their possessions, borrow from friends, or find a low paying job and try to stash away their excess pennies.

In the west, banks have tightened their purse strings and cut back lending to small businesses, to the Central banks chagrin. This is having an effect on expansion and improvement of businesses. In the developing world, the financial crisis of 2008, along with poor repayment rates, can have a serious impact on livelihood.

In my last week in Dar, I came across a formerly homeless young man.

Perhaps Enterprise Development would be a better field for me. I love giving able individuals simple ideas to get their lives back on track and get the cash flow flowing again.

Beautiful Pemba

Though only an hour's flight away, Pemba is a world apart from Dar. AKF has a brilliant campus overlooking the Bay of Pemba. It's almost surreal, and I attempt to visit the veranda daily to breath in the fresh air.

There is no life in Pemba. But it's a beautiful place with lots of opportunity. It gets dark after 5:30 as they're an hour behind Dar. And it seems like by 7 or 8, everyone is getting ready to sleep. Except for a few m-Cell boys trying to make some coin into the wee hours of the night. I'm not a fan of going to a party at 1am, as was the case in Dar, but this is completely the other extreme! People have limited funds here (Cabo del Gado residents considered to have half the average income of Mocambique), and being at the end of the road, supply is limited and costly. But the Goans and other Indians (especially with home bases in Maputo) seem to be changing this with their many wholesale shops, bringing goods from Maputo and South Africa. The whales pass daily, but sadly I have yet to see one.

Homeless in Africa

I won't try to explain money to you since Bart did a good job when he was in a similar placement last year (the currency situation has changed since - more of the money is gross, and the Met has dropped 35% since early in the year, leading to some of the food insecurity uprisings in maputo. Funny that some hotels still use a posted rate of 25, when it's actually 36):

'Any denomination of mets 200+ (200, 500, 1000), are all nice new crisp bills. The twenties, however, look like they've been in a long distance runner's sock (or worse) during a marathon. I'm afraid to touch them – not only because they are absolutely foul, but because they are so delicate from so much use that I imagine them disintegrating into a fine mist if I handle them – like some ancient papyrus scroll.'

The recent film on Thursday movie night was 'Burn After Reading'. Since then I've moved a few times, with mixed results. Sadly, it hasn't gone well. Can't get power. Can't get internet. Can't get water. Can't get clean!! Most people would say relax, TIA. And the reality is that this is TIA, but there are 'western' expectations of me - the results are all anyone will pay attention to in the end. All the challenges are real, and are faced by billions, who have come to accept these things as part of their everyday lives.

From 9/9/10 F/X $1 = 35 Mts

Would you believe that 'bread' is 'pao' in portuguese! Pronounced just as us guju's would! And another one is 'pagar' which more or less means cash.

I've been on two motorcycle journey's, getting to know about small enterprises and how the bank can serve them better. Some are experiencing very poor sales due to ramadan - and since in such countries, food production/sales is a very typical microbusiness,

If any of you have good portuguese websites, please let me know as this place is COMPLETELY void of English.

Beautiful beaches for sure. Check us out on a map and you'll see how well we are positioned for a future tourism industry!

EXTREMELY expensive for packaged goods; more than Dar, with much less availability. Everything is from South Africa. I guess we're at the end of the road, so it makes sense. Parmalat has a local juice brand, where you can get 1L for 70 Meticais (Mts) ($2) - good to see it's 'local', but sad that in a tropical country, juice is so pricey. Similar to Dar, - rarely is it 'pure' juice. Milk here @ the supermarket I just checked out was 90 Mts! Over $2! How would the average person afford such things? Many low end jobs (houseworkers etc) get 1200 Mts/mth (though min wage is 2500). A 'Yop' like bottle of yogurt is $1. Cereal in Dar often goes for $7-8, and I think here it was not far off that. <1L of cream goes for 220 Mts - $6!!!! Perhaps this is why we are seeing riots in Maputo.

Went to 'Osman' - It's the closest semblance to a supermarket, but they didn't have dates or figs - I was looking for fibre since everything is protein (read: grilled chicken) and carbs here (read: white bread and ugali aka xima). So I bought corn/maize on the street, as I often did in Dar (but without the chili/lime salt sprinkling).

Very excited to go to the expat movie night. A show called 'The Prophet'. It's Chandraat tonight too, but I'm skipping out as I'd like to get to know some of the other NGO's etc working here.

Ok, I'm off to see a guy from Karachi who's lived here a while regarding a place to live! FMB is paying about $50/nite for me right now, totally not worth it since I can't be independent way out there on Wimbe Beach. On another note, a Vancouver TKN volunteer for HR just arrived today for 2mths.

My new life in Southern Africa

I arrived Monday evening to a hectic flurry of activity in Pemba airport.  Was not a welcome entry to say the least!  The passengers going on to Nampula and Maputo were given the priority. However, I'm here now, and it's been a great few days.  Yesterday (Tuesday) was a holiday so got to hang out with a fellow fellow, Janice, and through her have met a few other AKF Guesthouse residents and expats.

My hotel is right on Wembe beach, but slightly isolated from town.  Am looking for accomodation.  Went to JK both nights so far and it's quite interesting that some of the younger kids only speak portuguese! Nandi is in the same so it's really weird. All farmans in Hindi/Gujarati since few English speakers.

Went to visit about 10 of our banks clients today...got to see all the little shops and wide range of businesses, and ask some questions about whether the loan has improved their prospects in life. Had a translator with very weak english - he was the loan officer responsible for staying in touch with those clients.

Whether a little milder (in theory) here esp due to ocean breeze.  Certainly less mosquitos. Lots of cool baobab trees. Can't wait to visit Maputo and South Africa at some point, probably March, as I'm starting to hear great stories from some Portuguese expats who work out here.

Should you need to reach me:

+258 822 855 923

Another Day in Dar passes....

Every morning I awaken to the sounds of screaming children. As I peak out the window behind my bed, I see Olympid and Shaban Robert schools. The playfulness is often accompanied by loud drums, followed by students yelling into the mic, perhaps for practicing their English. I always told myself I'd wake early to listen in, or at least to go for a run along the beach, but that never happened. Often I'll walk into work; now used to the thermometer hitting 28 by the 9am.  I'll watch people frying mohogo, vitumbua, etc in the street.  Cabbies are eager to take me to work, often strategically waiting on my street for me to walk out. After the niceties I sit down at my desk, promising not to touch email or fb until real work is done - I usually fail though. Around 2pm I'll crave a treat from City Supermarket, so I'll grab an Omega ice cream bar from Azam's -Bakhresa foods, 110ml of deliciousness for Tsh 900 - $0.60.  

Today is my last day...I'll miss hearing the same tunes over and over all day everyday! Mind you it gets louder as it gets closer to 6; I think they're trying (in vain) to get us out of here!  Here is a sampling...

And I miss you

smooth operator

time after time

madonna american pie

sting desert rose

I've definitely got used to my life here, living local, getting around, eating cooked bananas (matoke), ugali, maharage, etc.  Pemba will be a completely different experience, and I have a feeling it'll get pretty boring after a while. So I just picked up some DVD's - 'Salt', 'The Expendables', and Snoop Dogg videos.

This weekend is hectic, am meeting up with Venus (a fellow from Z-Bar with Rahaleo Project), lunch with Moez (my nanima's nephew, who is visually impaired, and great company), meeting with my 2nd cuz Nafeez and his new wife, etc.

Will have to tell you about last weekend...had a nice trip to Kigamboni...but not so good stories getting on the ferry on the way back! 

10 days to go....

Although after many global adventures I feel desensitized to all I see, after reading other blogs I've realized many things out of my day which are quite odd and memorable.  So although they don't involve anything particularly exciting, they'll help me remember my time here, while keeping all of you informed of my day to day non-adventures.

-today, a jet passed right over our building.  we all froze and stared at each other.  usually, it's just the people on the roof, who've constantly been at it - some kind of maintenance project which we're forced to put up with.  but today, it was different...it was incredibly loud and scary.  must be preparation for next months elections.

-everyday (well, not everyday) the same askari (guard) watches me walk by and grab my Azam ice cream. neither of us make any attempt to talk to each other.  then i go to the same cashier (Janet) who is often chatting with her colleagues, perhaps about the guy who always needs ice cream, perhaps about something else.  

-the same moments exist with the askari at home.  however, they appreciate my few Swahili words and the occasional food offerings I leave them.  And the day guard often throws a line or two at me like 'safi sana' which i realized was a compliment for when i have that 'very clean' look

-occasionally people I don't know mumble things in swahili to me. being brown, they assume i'm a local, and they probably think i'm a snob for not responding.  but whenever i respond, it turns out they weren't talking to me in the 1st place.  so i resort to just keeping to myself.  

-Apparently USD bills <$50 or from before 2000 are too hard for vendors to convert. So don't bring 'em!

-Joining the Ramadhan sports competition has been enjoyable, though playing badminton in 25 degree night heat with countless mosquitos isn't the most relaxing experience.  Everyone just wears whatever they were wearing earlier - noone changes to athletic equipment.  Hearing the mix of english, swahili, kutchi, and hindi at JK and related events is very interesting.  Especially when youth dis each other in kutchi.

-we are now so used to the pounding and banging on the roof. we don't even know what it is anymore or when it'll be done, we just deal with it! esp odd when in board meetings.

BAGGIE-A-MOYO, BAGGIE A MOYO, BAGGIE A MOYO

That's the sound of the fare collector on our dala dala on the way to Bagamoyo. Was a journey much longer than expected, meaning my friend and I had a very limited amount of time there. We had lunch, wandered the beach a bit (where locals take the risky boats to Zanzibar; a 4-5hr journey for 4000 tsh, unlike the 2hr boat we take from dar for 25k tsh), checked out the slave fort, and the 1889 ithna-ashari mosque. Couldn't find the JK, but have heard it's nice, and that there were many of us, and Indians in general, in years past. This very small town was used to store slaves from the mainland to be sent to Z-bar, where of course the Oman Sultanate was based. Also interesting to know Baga seems to be the 'rasta' capital of Tz. 

 

My journey was 'free', as it cost 250 tsh to get to Mwenge bus station, then 1600 to Baga, then 2000 in Baga, and 1000 to get back to Mwenge. So about $3.50 return/pp!   I'll ignore the 7k cab within dar, as we were kinda tired and wanted to get home. 

 

Only 2 weeks remain in my time in Dar, and I'm finally getting to explore this place. The heat and air pollution often keep me off the streets, but now I explore the food markets and am trying to cram in as much as possible.

ANOTHER DISASTER STRIKES

This is a disaster on a massive scale. Millions of families and children have lost everything. Where the waters have receded, homes, farms, clinics, schools and entire communities are gone. Those who have survived face grave conditions, but we can reach them with the essentials to help them get through this crisis and begin the process of rebuilding their lives.

about a minute ago  · Comment · 

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    Naheed Gilani If you have ever called me cheap, here is your chance to prove it true. If you donate more than me, than I will accept your verdict.

    about a minute ago ·  · 
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    Naheed Gilani Will you skip your next meal out to potentially SAVE LIVES of our suffering brothers and sisters?

Barely Breathing in Dar

Ah, I miss Ottawa. Especially the clean air.  And the sanity.  But it could be crazier here.  It is Africa after all.  I craved adventure, now I have it.  But to breath Canadian air again would be great.

What else am I missing (or missed) in Canada?

-the birth of Akhil, Aly Khan's son

-the marriage of my cousin Zahra

-apparently the costliest natural disaster in Canadian history (July 12th Calgary hail storm) 

-Ashif & Reeshma's long awaited return

-trips to Nanaimo?

-my dadima's 85th bday on Aug 4th

What did I get to do?

-Scuba on my 30th in the Indian Ocean (Zanzibar)

-spend time with Gulamhussein Gilani (94?), my late dadabapa's brother

-spend time with Sadru Gilani (85?), my late dadabapa's cousin, and a legend in Kisumu

-visit Lyon, Paris, and Annecy

-visit Nairobi, Nakuru, Kisumu

-live in Dar and Pemba; visit Zanzibar and hopefully Bagamoyo

You may remember I posted this in 2006 on another travel blog.

Regarding doing development work in Ghana, a guy on the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree forums asked why do we go to africa?  glowbetrottar 's response:

 

'I visit Africa to "get away from it all". 

In the UK, sitting in an office, packed in with buildings, cars, and living on top of each other in a small house, cold weather, lots of attitude, everything judged by the time it takes and the money it makes... 

Then there's Africa.

Vast. Loads of space. Fantastic weather. Varied. The dust. The smell. The fresh, gorgeous mornings. The cool, stunning sunsets in the evenings. The wildlife. The silence. The noise. The unspoilt outdoors. The vista's. Hiking. The heat. The cold. The locals & their customs. 

And the sheer anarchy of it all. Everything is a challenge. Getting around is a hassle. Getting anywhere on your own is rewarding. 

I don't have a romantic view of Africa at all - its hard, its brutal, its primitive and I wouldn't like to live there. But I love travelling there.'

Enough said.

Poverty in TZ

When the majority of people don't have a bank account, how do they access financial services?  In TZ, only 6% of people had a bank account in 2001, it's probably about 10% now.  M-Pesa and other mobile banking services (literally via mobile) are helping people in rural areas access funds.  Interestingly, in many 'poor' countries, we think the poor don't have the ability to save.  In fact, their financial lives are quite complex.  Often, savings occurs 'in kind' - via tin (for roofs), chickens, grains, gold, etc. They often store cash with neighbors to keep it away from their husbands, or gain informal credit with the local shopkeepers. As useful as some of these 'financial products' may be, liquidity is lacking. In case of a health emergency or a need to pay tuition, they are not sufficient.  Microfinance helps the previously 'unbankable' gain access to vital financial services.

Currently, I'm working in Microinsurance.  The idea is to protect the poor from unexpected events which could lead them to extreme poverty.  When the poor finally build up their savings, the last thing we want is for their savings to be wiped out due to family illness, a flood which damages their home or goods in their store, etc.  It's a very new field and I'm seeing lots of innovation.  AKDN is working with Gates on this initiative.  Since the Dar Microfinance operation is quite small, I am moving to Mozambique to gain more experience in the microfinance side of things (lending to the poor).  I'm very excited for this opportunity and hopefully working in a small town will be a great cultural experience.

In case you don't know, here is our mission...
Microinsurance seeks to provide a safety net for  populations by providing comprehensive and cost-effective protection against life's unforeseen events. By assisting them to manage the risk of expensive healthcare treatments or sudden loss of assets due to drought or floods, as well as helping them plan for contingency in case of the death of a family member and paying for funeral expenses, Microinsurance can help secure the progress poorer populations have made in escaping abject poverty.

FOOD. At the wedding in Kenya, eating was very problematic since people love loading everything with nuts! Having a tough time with all the fried foods, and still haven't really figured out what to eat. Trying to fill my diet with as much fruit as possible, but it's not easy to find the good stuff.

Things are really costly here; it seems they know indians and tourists are not very price sensitive, so they charge what they want (service industry primarily). I'd like to cook @ home, but since I'm moving to Mozambique in a month, no point buying dishes and ingredients etc. I'm very impressed that many people are coming back here (not just on holidays) but are here to do business. Including some very young people. It's not an easy place to live, that's for sure, and everyday I'm amazed that my parents survived this place! Sure, 'it was much nicer back then', but still!!!

Lots of regular visitors from Calgary: Adil Juma, Rahim Moldeina, Nazia (Roger visiting soon too), Visram's, Hirji's, past south Kamadia and family, and many more! Also turns out a friend of a friend used to live in my flat!

The experience has been very valuable so far. Back home I would never get to work with product development, work directly with the CEO, and witness the growth of a new financial industry (microinsurance). The high level management meetings I've been a part of have given me great insights into the way business is developing down here. So very rewarding! Though I haven't worked with the poor yet, I should experience more of that in Mozambique.

STUCK IN KISUMU

WOW this computer remembers me...was here in 06!!! I guess they don't clear the cache. Was really odd and i thought i'd lost my mind

Made some great friends on this journey and my only regret is slept around 8AM and woke at 9:48am...good news is I still caught my 10:20 to NBI. Yes, it's a world record. 

 

will write again 2morrow from dar....

 

 

Evening 2 of 5

The journey to Kisumu was long, but we made it.  Missed Naivasha and Kericho, but did connect with family in Nakuru, where our bus stopped at Gilani's Supermarket for lunch.  Meeting lotsa unknown family and making some interesting friends who are East Africa/Safari virigins.  I remember how amazing my first safari was....

 

We had an evening on Lake Victoria yesterday, and tonight is Bollywood Sangeet.  Tommorrow is the wedding and reception, and then Saturday is Arabic Swahili night.  Impossible to get flights out of Kisumu. Over 18 countries are represented here.  Happy to connect with my dadabapa's cousin, who is about 85.  And dada's bro, who is about 94.  Missed my dadima's 85th on Aug 4th (same day as the major Kenyan referendum, for which YES vote has succeeded), and missing Zahra's wedding right now :(

 

Got news that I passed my CFP while in France, pls keep the paper if you see my name published!  I think Globe and Mail.

Month One - Complete!!

Reached Nairobi Thurs night.  Since then, have hung out with my cousin Rozy and her kids, visited the Masai Market, Westgate/Sarit, and Parklands JK. Leaving tommorrow AM on a coach...this is the agenda, but don't think we'll be able to do all of this (I've done it in '02 and '06 anyways)

• Lake Naivasha - Photo Shoots with the world renowned pink Flamingoes
• Nakuru - Lunch on Gilani Street
• Kericho - ''Chai Tea Lattes'' on Kericho Tea Plantation
• Kisumu - Arrival snacks and cold towels at Destination

Lyon was interesting. Visited Paris for the day (way to short) and also Annecy, a beautiful French retreat in the Alps. Since I have limited net access in Kenya, instead of writing about Lyon in detail, here's a quick top 10!

10 Things I love about France...

1) French chics r hot
2) French ppl say 'way' instead of 'oui' (slang?)
3) some places close randomly for weeks at a time, or for lunch, and they don't always re-open
4) everybody speaks french! very few speak english. most tourists in Lyon seem to be from France. Or other parts of Europe.
5) Paris is not very tourist friendly
6) France isn't very tourist friendly
7) France is expensive! Cost me €130 to get to paris and back. My cab to hotel (incl wait time) was € 90.
8) Couples like walking around with a 3rd wheel
9) girls like to bike in skirts!
10) loads of North and West Africans here. Very few Indians, but handfuls of East Asians.

Another hilite: Watched the Congolese band Staff Benda Bilili at the Greco Roman Ruins/Amphitheatre at Nuits de Forviere up on the hill, with all Lyon in the background. Was quite surreal as I had just learned about them 2 wks earlier in Dar, watching their story on BBC. They are all quadra or paraplegic and were street performers!

Scuba adventures in Zanzibar

Friday after work Joyce (my friend from Cali with the Tanzanian (TZ going forward) Nursing Initiative) jumped on board the Azam SeaBus for the 1.5hr ride to Zbar. It was a bumpy ride, not for the faint of heart (seasick), but we got some lovely seats where we could sprawl out on the top deck, where we could enjoy the breeze. Basically it was the thickly carpeted floor. Could hardly walk on the ship, tourists (like us) were covering every available space. Hmmm could they be filling the boats beyond capacity and not declaring the additional passengers for tax purposes? I was happy only paying the locals rate of 20k ($14) each way, vs $35 USD. As expected the port (both ways) was hectic and we were mobbed by taxi drivers wanting to have us as their next victims (always walk out of the crazy area to get a fare priced cab). We stayed at Warere Guest House, not ideal on the port side, but only 20mins from Stonetown. On Friday night we checked out some films (Motherland, by a Jamaican Brit), and Ndoto Za Elibidi (stories of love and HIV from Nairobi slums). Saturday we wondered the endless alley's of Zanzibar and took a dala dala (sorry no pics) for 20mins up to Mtomi Marine (a beach) where we made some friends. On the way back we stopped at Darjiani (locals food market) where we had some catchori, bajia, corn, etc from street stalls. We later hung out at Livingstone's where we met Pweza (means octupus, which is what he goes by). Went to a locals pub briefly, to celebrate my bday. Everyone was tired, so I wandered on my own, to the film fest afterparty, then wandered by Bwawani disco. Sunday we had Scuba from 9-2 (I decided to spoil myself for my bday, espcially since in Powell River 2005 and Egypt 2006 I missed the chance). Then caught the 4pm ferry. Will never forget the dive and journey there...stay tuned for details!

mtindi, muchungwa, and sekelo mahindi

Finally had the courage to buy street food. Apparently, I only got partially ripped off, so that was exciting. Still haven't had madafu though.  Last night for dinner, had a ~medium thin crust chicken tikka pizza, bavaria (malt beverage), and 'revello' - total cost - 8k Tsh (divide by 1400 gives <$6!!)

hope this makes sense!  leo mchana nilinunua mtindi, muchungwa, na mahindi.  Many of the visitors from Calgary who were in town have now left, and come September I'll probably have even less friends as many of the students return to school. So learning swahili will be very helpful.

As nice as Tanzanians might be, they aren't very motivated to get things done. In fact, Customer Service hasn't been invented here. I'm thinking of starting a business which will teach this alien concept. People say it's because TZ was socialist before, and also that in Kenya, things get done much faster.

Stunned by the disparity here - I can't remember what Kenya was like (visited in 02 and 06), but I think the latter must be worse as it was #5 for Gini coefficient if I recall correctly.  People pay house staff miserably; which probably isn't the best idea since we already got kicked out once already! It's easy for the privileged, including many indians, to spend in a night out what some locals earn in a month.

On another note...the onion has been one of my favorite websites for many years, though I rarely visit it. This one was too good not to pass on:

http://www.theonion.com/articles/more-americans-concerned-illegal-immigrants-will-t,17705/?utm_medium=twitter&utm_source=twitterfeed

I thought I'd post it here rather than facebook since some of you aren't on facebook.  Then again, I'm sure you're not checking my blog either!

gotcha mutha*#*(@# !!

I've never cursed so much. A good night's sleep is dependent on exterminating those buggers. So I chase them wherever they go. Their dead bodies line my floors. The ants help carry them away. The lizard who hangs out in the bathroom, along with the spiders, help out in catching some. This first week has been a bit of a 'housing' disaster as they just creep in from everywhere. Sunday and Monday night I was at Durban hotel, then was at the flat, and last 2 nights the local pastor helped me find 'cheapest and best' hotel, until this is sorted. Sunday morning (July 11th) I awoke around 4am with a swollen lip (mosquito bite!) and decided to head to our mosque as it was a special day and we had breakfast and dandiaraas. Visited Kariakoo (a notorious neighborhood) after.

Though we have a driver at the office for when I need to get around, the parkade is annoying to get in and out of. There are tons of huge speedbumps, just like in other parts of Dar. 'Rotating through this thing is like going to heaven' says my colleague Dr Deogratias Morice Kasenene Kakiziba. If you knew him, it would be alot funnier! But I think he was 'upset' when I laughed at what I thought was a joke - he was quite serious about hating it. He's also quite frustrated with the phrase 'microinsurance' as this concept doesn't really exist in the swahili language. Interestingly enough his 'third' name refers to the grasshopper delicacies that are served in his region. He emphasized it's not your common locust, and the prices are shooting up, while describing their crunchiness to me.

All people eat here is CHIPS. Had chips mayai for lunch today (basically an omlette with fries cooked in!). This trip so far redefines 'greasy' for me. It has been a challenge (as always when trying to live local) figuring out what foods to eat. So far it's been alot of mishkaki (beef skewers), chicken piri piri, samaki (fish), pilau, ndizi (banana) and some fresh juices.

Watched the game at Slipway, Oyster Bay Sunday night. Friends didn't show, so then I went to Movenpick, where they ended up. After, went to a place called Mambos with some local Ismailis for some post-midnight greasy delights.

NG

Week 1 in Ottawa

30+ here while Calgary freezes over yet again. Exploring the city has never been made easier! U Ottawa is so central that everything is within walking distance. Going to Tim's in my PJ's, AM yoga and smoothies from our 7th floor abode, and welcoming people into our little kitchen will be memories I'll cherish for years to come. What else can I say about Ottawa...so much going on in this vibrant cultural paradise (relative to Calgary, at least) and people are happy as can be. In the few days we've been here we've had countless amazing conversations, most recently with a man who's been face to face with the notorious Charles Taylor. Knowing that the Aga Khan is in town or in nearby TO makes this experience even better. (his visit is for the groundbreaking for the Center for Pluralism and the Aga Khan Museum, and for accepting honorary Cdn Citizenship (very few have been previously honored with this - suu kyi, mandela, dalai lama...). For once, my entire family is all close together -yet we're all apart! Parents will visit Ottawa soon. I was very surprised with how many Calgarians now call Ottawa home. I told them my high opinion of Ottawa...some of them admit a visit may be nice, but living here is another story...

Now on July 12th, looking back, the training certainly was NOT such a breeze! We worked into the evenings and weekends, and having business to deal with + preparing for my CFP exam was not an easy task. One week until my exam results...