Home at Last (edited)

Challenges of writing a blog

Forever we are required to entertain - don't lose the readers attention! said my 8th grade English teacher. That's the dilemma I face. There is so much to write about in my day to day affairs. But when I sit down to type, not only do I forget those special or quirky moments, but I lack inspiration to write. Ok, well here's my best attempt. It may just turn out to be a journal. When it's 29 degrees and you have no a/c, thinking, breathing, and even typing is a little tough. And to think many people work for $30/mth outdoors in this difficult land. 'they're used to it' many 'strangero' (foreigners) say, 'that's their life, it's ok for them'. Well if you consider inadequate sanitation, meals consisting primarily of carbs (pao as they call it - fresh bread/buns) and xima/ugali - (maize flour mixed with water to form a solid porridge), irregular access to water and electricity, then yes, it's just fine for them. Perhaps our vision for a better life for the poor is not so necessary after all.

On Saturday, we took an off-road journey to Murrebue (www.murrebue.com/Pages/home-page.html), an amazing beach 30 minutes away. It was a scary journey which was beyond my comfort level - but upon saying 'yes, I'd like to join - do you have space for me?' I had past the point of no return. I'll avoid the details since I'm now at an age where I give family access to my blog!

Sunday, you guessed it...I went to the beach (near Nautilus) with a local friend. I visited this young Mozambicans home for brunch before the 5 meticais bus journey to the beach. His home was basically a little concrete dwelling in behind the landowners home. His rent, at $24/mth (800mts) was 'expensive'. It was basically a double bed, with just enough room to walk around it. There was space for a tv and fridge, and his clothes were visible in a makeshift armoire. We had fried fish (90mts/kg - about 4 little fishies), a fried tomato/onion mix (very common), and xima (ugali). It was a nice day, other than the 1 hour he left me waiting alone while he tried to reload his phone with credit.

So I committed to a home at last. Not sure it will be permanent, but will do for now. I know my roommate is charging me way too much, but worth it for the piece of mind and for the stability. Better than bouncing around from motel to shady motel. The houseboy makes it really awkward for me. The owner thinks he treats his 'servante' very well - but he sleeps on the floor - at night he has a straw mat though, for that added touch of luxury. He sleeps in the corner like a dog. I don't think he has access to a shower so the scent is a little overwhelming. My boss has advised me not to get involved - it's none of my business, as long as I treat him well.

The housing challenge:

Not only do people not mark places for rent, but even if they did, it’s impossible to find the owner. In one case, a colleague from M&E, moving back to Dominican, showed me a 2 bdr place on the beach for $800. The owner was based in Maputo, and the guard was only found after a repeat visit, in which case said (Portuguese speaking) colleague was not with me. It was nighttime, and there was no power in the house, so his Nokia light (most cells here have flashlight and radio!) was all we had. Now, oil companies are scooping up beach properties.

The solution:

Learn Gujarati, Portuguese, and Hindi/Urdu as fast as possible. Network like mad. Talk to airline agents, NGO workers, AKDN staff and interns, even randoms on the street.

The result:

Success! Tuesday Sept 28^th I moved, after 3 weeks in limbo.