Though only an hour's flight away, Pemba is a world apart from Dar. AKF has a brilliant campus overlooking the Bay of Pemba. It's almost surreal, and I attempt to visit the veranda daily to breath in the fresh air.
There is no life in Pemba. But it's a beautiful place with lots of opportunity. It gets dark after 5:30 as they're an hour behind Dar. And it seems like by 7 or 8, everyone is getting ready to sleep. Except for a few m-Cell boys trying to make some coin into the wee hours of the night. I'm not a fan of going to a party at 1am, as was the case in Dar, but this is completely the other extreme! People have limited funds here (Cabo del Gado residents considered to have half the average income of Mocambique), and being at the end of the road, supply is limited and costly. But the Goans and other Indians (especially with home bases in Maputo) seem to be changing this with their many wholesale shops, bringing goods from Maputo and South Africa. The whales pass daily, but sadly I have yet to see one.
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