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Monday, November 8, 2010

a reef? right in front of my house?

I'm going to be bored outta my mind on wkds. They're like a never-ending beach vacation!

This wkd was good as this Sunday AM did some amazing snorkeling!
Cost me $6 (a tip)! The reef is right in front of my place during low tide! Cut up my hands and legs a bit on the coral
as it comes right up to the surface. This was more fun then those expensive touristy trips - like when I snorkeled in Bahamas in 2009 or scuba'd in zanzibar in July. It was just so effortless - no prep required, just grab the snorkel and 15mins later you are enjoying the ocean.

On prev wkds I'd wonder town and pass time with the Ismaili community including
my roomates and their friends and wondering town. Now that I live on the beach,I'm constantly harrased
by beach boys, but I'm kinda in the coolest part of pemba. On Sunday's,
U can hardly see the beach in front of me its so crowded!

Since coming back to Pemba on Tuesday I've had a bad on and off cold - probably due to being around sick people, the climate change from Nairobi, and due to going from a/c to scorching heat in Pemba. Somehow found some Cogoni Jivan Sanjivani in Mombasa whilst shopping for spices, so a little addicted to that along with my little vicks inhaler as some of you always see me with.

Thursday, November 4, 2010

a love hate relationship.

I'm glad to be back in Pemba. A new house, a refreshed mind, a/c in the office. The hot weather is not so different from Mombasa. I can get used to the sun setting at 5pm.

But alas. No water in the new place. It's being resolved I am told. We will see.  Nothing reminds us how fortunate we are than having to use buckets of water - for showering, washing dishes, washing your face, brushing your teeth, etc.  And spending a whole afternoon trying to buy a motorbike - after asking them to prepare it yesterday,  I arrived today just before their two hour lunch break - they insisted I come back. Finally it was ready - but the municipal office, I found out, closes at 3pm. And a Swiss friend insisted, since police here don't hesitate to shoot, evident by the riots in Maputo only a few months earlier, I don't try to get away with riding without proper registrations!

So what was Kenya like? Spent some time on the beaches, visited other AKFC Fellows, visited 94yr old bapa (enjoyed learning about the family history in East Africa), attending JK, visiting First MicroBank Nairobi, trying to arrange a meeting with CARE, checking out the restaurants and night life, and seeing Kenya by train (Tsavo). The mild weather in Nairobi was brilliant. I can definitely say it's a city I could live in - but that's easy to say being based in Pemba!


Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Coast!

Heading to Mombasa tonight by an 8hr bus ride - a long journey but very excited! The train would be 15hrs, just a little too long for my liking. Spent today changing my flights, snoozing in the AM, eating traditional african food, and trying to organize the trip. Yesterday (Tues 26th) had a chance to visit Kibera, a slum with an estimated 1m residents. Before that, went to Al-Yusra, a great Somalian restaurant we found. I now will be returning to Pemba on Tuesday Nov 2nd. When I'm back in NBI in a couple days, would like to visit Toi Market, where my friend just picked up some very cheap hockey jerseys!

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Nairobi

Arrived Tuesday night. Had minor visa /passport problems.  Took a cab to Norfolk Towers (right outside downtown). Went to Simmers for dinner with the other fellows. Wednesday 20th was Kenyatta Day; went to Paradise Lost with Wanda and Dan. Also stopped in at the Kenyan National Archives (museum).  Watched 7 Pounds in the evening after we had a great daal dinner courtesy of Lisa! A friend came into town in the evening so went for late night snacks.  The mosquitos here buzz like crazy so am fighting for sleep!  Visited Shaffina in hospital this AM, did lunch with Wanda - ate ugali, nyama choma, kuku, and sukomawiki at the market, and drank stoney tangiwizi which i've been missing in pemba! Back to the hospital, then to visit Abdul uncle who just came back from China. Can't wait to get some Velvet Chocolate cake - I stopped one of their trucks today to see where I could get one!  Though the sun is hot today, this place is a huge relief from the heat of Pemba!  The evenings are cool here - it's great!

Monday, October 18, 2010

Indian feast; failed Ibo visit; memories of China

Yet another long weekend, but am at work today as I (and many others in the FMB Head Office) leave town tomorrow, many for or via Nairobi.  Yesterday we had a wonderful Rajasthani mutton curry. Muinto piri-piri but enjoyable nonetheless. Quite interesting to watch all the boys often get together and cook up a storm. The women aren't around so they've learned to make do - and quite well I might add.  I spent the day relaxing, reading, and learning about the 2nd hand clothing industry. Saturday was the end of Nauratri, and I enjoyed spending time with the mixed Indian community and practicing dandia/raas.  The day was a disaster though, as we took a brutal 3hr drive to Quisanga in an attempt to reach Ibo Island for an audit. We reached at 8am after our 5am departure, at which time I proceeded to chat with an Israeli couple(?) who were travelling post-military service. They had been waiting for a boat since 6am and their language barrier wasn't helping. We were able to get them the information and they boarded a boat with some other people I know from Pemba. We were to wait for the AKF boat, which surely would arrive soon we were told. Finally we got the update -10am. Ahh, then a Fundacion Ibo boat arrived, and one of the AKF nurses said the boat was at another island, Medjumbe I believe, and wouldn't get here anytime soon. She suggested we just take any boat, then the AKF boat would get us home. As I was on a 'work trip', I was advised we should wait for the proper boat. Many stories, texts, and calls later, we gave up our mission and at 2pm started to head home, back down the brutal dirt roads with spontaneous water traps built to divert water during the rainy season. Perhaps next time. 

Off to Nairobi tomorrow, it's my 4th time visiting but I've never been as excited!

This is from 2006! I was trying to post it to an online forum but wasn't successful, so what better place than my blog?  I have fond memories of China, and have just (finally) been in touch with my counterpart Chris, who is now based in Shanghai, and unfortunately declined a transfer to Zambia (would have been my neighbor!).

After a 14 hour flight and 20 hour train ride, we had a week to get rested in our new homes, and become acquainted with Yichang, Hubei. This is a city along the Yangtze river which is famous for its orange production, and is considered the hydroelectric capital of the world, as the controversial Three Gorges dam is a short drive away (not to mention Gezhouba and many others!). As a participant in a cross-cultural volunteer exchange, I was surprised when my counterpart and I initially were placed at a construction company, where we got to look at Chinese building techniques, including some new environmental projects such as water filtration. Not the type of place I though I would be volunteering at. As our usefulness with this firm was limited, we soon began as English teachers at Three Gorges Technical and Vocational College. It was quite enjoyable as the students were so grateful to have a native English speaker and they were eager to learn, often requesting extra classes. My roommate loved it for a while, as I could do most of the talking. He was then offered a job at the school! So he got busy following the curriculum, and after the four weeks of holidays (Spring Festival + final exams), I was transferred to a private boarding school overlooking the famous Gezhouba dam, where I completed the duration of my volunteer work. I learned how it feels to be 'illiterate', as in central China very few people speak English. All the signs are in Chinese characters. Amazingly, communication with my host mom was quite good. She realized the speed at which we could understand Chinese, along with the importance of simplicity! With a little body language, and my improving vocabulary (including local dialect), she understood me. During the Spring Festival, we spent lots of time with different aunts, often eating lunch at an apartment, going out for the afternoon, and returning to the same place for dinner. I got to know my counterparts family really well. In China, I became so used to the 10+ dishes at each meal, and have had to readjust to the simple food culture in Canada. In China, I noticed that schedules were quite precise, and I was surprised that time was taken seriously. On the other hand, we Canadians had to learn to go with the flow, as often we were told we had to be somewhere important minutes before we needed to leave. Our visit to the Great Wall was a mind-blowing experience. We saw a tiny portion of the 5500km wonder. We had two visits to Beijing as the city of 12 million was our entry and exit point in China. As we were in China to serve, not to travel, other places we visited were limited to Wuhan (capital of Hubei province), and rural regions of Yichang, including visits to minority peoples' regions. I loved the Tuja dance.

The level of hospitality I experienced in China was unsurpassed, and when I hear of people who visited as tourists and found the food was just 'mama hu hu' (so-so), I tell them they were surely eating at the wrong place! They should have eaten my Ayi's (aunties) food!

"Never have so many lines of communication in the hands of so many people been met with such obsessive resistance from a central authority."

Monday, October 11, 2010

banking in Pemba + confusion over cities

The Barclay's branch here is brutal.  I can't ever complain about Canadian banks after seeing the daily cues here (I may take that back once back in my TD branch).  We speak of challenges 'banking the unbanked', especially in rural areas - but even in the city access is poor.  People are so patient - my guess is either they don't have a busy day (perhaps their employer books a whole day off for them?).  Millenium/BIM is a local bank which sometimes is quite hectic, but I expected Barclay's to have a different standard.

 

Noone knows where I am. I always say 'Pemba Mozambique' but later am always asked 'how's Tanzania?' Well, there is Pemba Mozambique, Pemba Island (Zanzibar), and now I've discovered Pemba, Zambia. Perhaps like when we name a child, we should check a book before we name our cities. We need to copyright city names going forward and create a city names database....that's my bright idea!





Friday, October 8, 2010

yum...tambi!

The last few days were quite rewarding, i visited a local friend and found he had a fiance and a cute little 2yr old - i enjoyed the evening with them. baby robert had a very bloated belly so I insisted they take him to the dr. The doc said that he was fine (I disagree), but just needed more varied nutrition (agreed). i shared some maria biscuits with them, and it was touching to see mum put hers aside for the baby, even though i'd given him one. they have a great little place but no cash flow as his work was contracted out. i've given him some ideas and lent/given him some goods and a few dollars to get a micro business going, and so far it seems to be bearing fruit.

Last night I went to Club Naval (resort) with a friend from Vancouver (HR intern). I had a greek salad - wasn't the greatest but was still nice to get a salad for once. Until I'm settled into a permanent place, I probably won't cook much. But i did make yogurt! it was soso, perhaps because my culture base came from fruit yogurt. Will try again. And I made the most delicious Tambi! (sweet vermicelli in milk aka dudh wari sev) which is a very tradtional east african dish which my grandma wud always make - i had no idea it was so easy!